Amontillado Aurora (Yuste)

The Aurora Amontillado is produced from Manzanilla Pasada (“such as La Kika” according to the website of Bodegas Yuste). The solera was started in 1991 and the wine is aged in the Bodega Los Ángeles in the Barrio Alto (the upper district) of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

The ABV of 19% is fairly high (the Oloroso is only 17,5%) and indicates quite some evaporation and concentration – which comes down to a high average age of around 15-20 years.This Amontillado serves as the ‘base wine’ for the Conde de Aldama solera.

It is part of the Aurora series (named after the widow Aurora Ambrosse Lacave) which also includes an Oloroso, Pedro Ximénez and Manzanilla. The label depicts Aurora as a fresh bride, on the beach during the Feria de Manzanilla in 1890.

Amontillado Aurora (19%, Bodegas Yuste, 50 cl)

Nose: quite bold, with the old Manzanilla coming through. Sandy beach, hints of seaweed. Also a darker side, with hazelnuts and walnut husks, black sesame and hints of figs in the background. Top notes of orange peel. Very umami, with an above average oxidative character for an Amontillado.

Mouth: perhaps a little lighter than expected. A racy, salty side nicely balanced by some (also salted) caramel. Walnuts and roasted pecans. Great structure and lifted by a good acidity: a succulent wine really. Traces of plums and toffee. Meaty, almost smoky finish.

Availability: around € 15 for a 50cl bottle, check Bodeboca for international shipping.

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Summary: A complex and interesting Amontillado, with a slightly meatier character than most others but also a big Sanlúqueño coastalness. Clearly related to the Conde de Aldama and one of my favourites in this Aurora range.

4

Very good

Tags: 19%, Amontillado, conde de aldama, Manzanilla, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Yuste

About the Author

Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be