Viña Macharnudo Alto Barrel Fermented 2023 (Valdespino)
A barrel fermented white wine at the top of Valdespino’s albariza range
After years of gradually developing a range of non-fortified albariza wines, the Viña Macharnudo Alto Barrel Fermented sits at the top of this range since 2018.
The Palomino grapes for this white wine are sourced from the highest point of the historic pago Macharnudo Alto. This vineyard Viña Valdespino is owned by Valdespino since 1857. It sits around 135 metres above sea level, with a 10% gradient. Due to this prime location it benefits from optimum sun exposure, but also from the cooling Poniente winds.
Grapes were hand picked at night to avoid stress on the bunches and to have cooler temperatures. The must is obtained without any mechanical pressure and fermented in really old, ex-sherry barrels. The wine then rested on the lees for 6 months. After that it was racked off but remained in cask for two additional months.
Contrary to its sister from Viña Los Arcos in Macharnudo Bajo, this wine isn’t organic.
Viña Macharnudo Alto – Barrel Fermented 2023 (13%, Valdespino 2024)
Nose: a very accessible example of the unfortified albariza wines. A very beautiful combination of chalky notes, fresh lime and lemon, as well as a subtle minty touch. Then hints of dough and apple (cider) and some toasted almonds. As it warms up, nice hints of dried pear and yellow plum come out. In the background there’s also a light flinty note – almost Riesling’s petrol even – I love that.
Mouth: the refreshing acidity stands out. Crisp green apple with lemons, grapefruits and more pear. After that it becomes rounder and more full-bodied, with light hints of buttery oak and an oily character. Greener, herbal elements as well (thyme). More almonds and a very light exidative touch as it goes towards the finish. Medium long, dry and crisp aftertaste.
Availability: mostly in Spain and the UK, but also found in other markets. In Belgium it is distributed through The Nectar. Around € 15-20.
Summary: I've had this before but it seems to keep getting better. Great depth of flavour, with plenty of freshness and a nice acidity. It manages to combine accessibility and juiciness with a true sense of albariza, in a way that many people will appreciate.
4
Very good
About the Author
Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be
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