Moscatel de Chipiona (Lustau)

Moscatel is the most fragrant, aromatic grape found in the sherry region and this wine respects that character really well

If you search for information on Moscatel wines from Jerez, it will usually focus on the Moscatel de Pasas, the darker, raisined version that was given a certain level of asoleo followed by oxidative ageing. However there is also the Moscatel Oro or Moscatel Dorado, a golden wine made from fresh (albeit super ripe) grapes, often matured in stainless steel and/or bottled at a younger age to minimize the oxidative effects.

Lustau produces both styles. Their raisined Moscatel is the Moscatel Emilín. They also have an old Moscatel Las Cruces which consists of three high-quality butts that were removed from the solera Emilín more than 25 years ago. You won’t find a Moscatel Oro on their website but they are selling one, mainly in the UK.

Moscatel de Alejandria

It used to be labelled Moscatel de Alejandria but recently it seems to be named Moscatel de Chipiona. I assume that not all grapes that went into the wine were effectively the Alexandria varietal but also Moscatel de grano menudo (Moscatel à petit grains)? In any case all grapes are harvested in their vineyard Las Cruces, on sandy soils in Chipiona near the coast.

Moscatel de Chipiona (15%, Lustau)

Nose: this is what the Moscatel grape does best. Highly aromatic nose, with plenty of floral aromas like jasmine, orange blossom and honeysuckle. Hints of lychee and juicy apricot, as well as some marmalade and subtle grassy touches in the background. The lightness and elegance is excellent.

Mouth: sweet and honeyed of course, but still with this light-footed elegance. A certainly lemony freshness and subtle acidity to balance the sweetness. More lychee, lime and white peach flavours. Hints of elderflower cordial and melon sorbet. Grapefruit peels. Overall the acidity could be a little higher, but it’s not too cloying either. Served chilled this works well with foie gras, a fruit dessert or something with chocolate.

Availability: mostly seen in the UK for around £ 6-8, from Waitrose for instance.

Summary: A very grapey, floral and slightly tropical sweet wine. Really sweet so maybe not everyone's cup of tea, but not overpowering. I think there's too little of this style in Jerez (it's more common in Valencia for instance). Very good value for money.

4

Very good

Tags: 15%, chipiona, Dessert wine, las cruces, Lustau, Moscatel, Moscatel Oro

About the Author

Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be